Quick City Guide: Edinburgh, Scotland

To end our glorious Scotland road trip, we spent a couple of days taking in the wonder that is Edinburgh. I immediately found Edinburgh to be one of my favorite European cities. It felt like a fairytale setting, with its colorful buildings and the sound of bagpipe buskers a perfect balance for its typically gloomy weather. A giant castle perched on a hilltop looms over the city - it doesn't get much more magical than that.

We actually got really lucky with the weather and saw a lot of blue sky during our visit and therefore did almost all of our exploring on foot (the one exception was our trusty go-to hop-on-hop-off bus).

What to See & DO

Wander along Grassmarket and up Victoria Street. This stretch of vibrant buildings and cobblestone is often compared to Diagon Alley (from the Harry Potter books, which are said to have been written in Edinburgh). 

Lining the street above, many restaurants have outdoor patios that offer a unique vantage point and comfortable spot to rest and enjoy lunch.

Get up close to Edinburgh Castle. This historic fortress can usually be seen from anywhere in the city due to its location high on the hill, but seeing it up close is a must-do. We opted not to buy tickets to enter the castle due to it being extremely crowded when we went up. The views looking down on the city from the castle are also not to be missed.

The Scotch Whisky Experience. I personally found this to be a slightly hokey experience, but all in all, am glad we did it. It is comprised of a Disney-esque short ride through the whisky-making process, an introduction to the aromas of whiskies from different regions of Scotland, a walk through the world's largest collection of whiskies, and a dram (we chose the Silver Tour & Tasting, which I found to be more than adequate - no need to upgrade to one of their higher-level experiences).

Walk the Royal Mile. This is the main series of streets that comprise the Old Town area of Edinburgh. It's lined with shops, restaurants, and pubs - I recommend stopping into a pub for a pint and some live music! 

Pay a visit to Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, another stop for Harry Potter fans, where you can see Thomas Riddell's gravestone. Nearby is a statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a dog who is said to have spent fourteen years guarding the grave of his owner until his own death. 

Eat & Drink

While you're walking the Royal Mile, make sure to stop into Brew Lab for specialty coffee and a doughnut from nearby Baba Budan.

One day, we happened upon the lunch spot Let Me Eat Too and had a fabulous meal with even better service (apparently I was too hungry to take photos at this spot!). I would recommend this especially on a rainy day, as it has a very cozy vibe.

My favorite meal in Edinburgh was breakfast on our last morning in town. We walked through the university district (a lovely morning walk) over to Press Coffee. The coffee was tasty and I still think about my meal sometimes...poached eggs on potato pancakes with asparagus, arugula, and the slightest amount of hollandaise. Must recreate.

Where To Stay

We decided on a centrally located Airbnb for our stay in Edinburgh. There are plenty to choose from depending on your own personal preference (see my guide on Choosing the Perfect Airbnb here), but I highly recommend staying in Old Town near Grassmarket Square. It's the perfect location from which to explore all the main sights. By the way, it is definitely not necessary to have a car in Edinburgh. We did have one, but only because we were at the end of our Scotland road trip and had to wait to return the car at the Glasgow airport after our stay in Edinburgh.

We love Scotland! To see the rest of our road trip adventure, check out my other Scotland posts: Quick City Guide: Glasgow, Scotland  & The Ultimate Scotland Road Trip

Taste of Northern Vietnam: A 5-Day Itinerary

When my dad and I decided to go visit my sister who was living in Thailand, we almost immediately decided that we would add on a stop in Vietnam. He had been interested in visiting the country for a while and I honestly didn't know too much about it, but it looked beautiful and the more adventures the better! If we were going all that way, why not try to see as much as possible? 

Since the main goal of our trip was to spend time with my sister in Thailand, we decided to spend just five days in Vietnam. We would fly into Hanoi and take a couple of side trips from there. It turned out to be a fantastic decision and I honestly can't believe how much we saw in such a short time! If you are traveling to Southeast Asia and have a little bit of time to spare, I highly recommend a stop in Hanoi.

I am going to share our jam-packed five-day itinerary with you. Firstly, though, a bit about the planning process: I found our hotel in Hanoi first; I liked it for its location as well as the fact that it had add-on options for day trips and tours. We decided to add on an overnight stay on a boat in Ha Long Bay and a day trip to the mountains of Ninh Binh. Since both additions (including transportation) were reserved through the hotel, the booking process was streamlined and simple. They also shuttled us to and from the airport. Alright, now onto the trip.

Day 1: Arrive in Hanoi, get settled at the hotel & walk around the old quarter

We hopped in the hotel shuttle and rode from the airport, through the fields, over the river, and into the city of Hanoi. We were in Vietnam! Despite the near 24 hours of travel, it was incredibly exciting to be in Asia for the first time. We reached the Old Quarter, where our hotel was, got checked in, cleaned up, and headed out to explore the surrounding blocks on foot.

Busy open-air restaurants with colorful miniature stools and tiny tables line the streets. Between them, coffee shops and stores of all kinds. The streets are full of the most insane traffic I've ever witnessed; stop signs are meaningless, motorcycles and scooters are extremely abundant and weave between cars and people. Crossing the street is an act of confidence - you have no choice but to step out into the constant stream and hope that the next vehicle will slow enough for you to get across safely. Walking through Hanoi is a shocking, overwhelming sensory overload, but in the best possible way.

view from the hotel

view of the streets from cong coffee shop

walking the busy streets

bikes everywhere

all lit up at night

Day 2: Explore Hanoi

After a much-needed night of sleep, we headed out again into the city. This time, we ventured a bit further. We walked to Hoan Kiem Lake (translates epically as Lake of the Returned Sword) in the historical center and main downtown area of the city. There is a beautiful, park-like path that entirely encircles the lake. From the northern shore stretches a long red bridge that leads to Temple of the Jade Mountain that sits on an island in the middle of the lake. 

We decided to hop in a tuk tuk (a pedaled rickshaw and very common mode of transportation) that took us across the city to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the final resting place of the Vietnamese Revolutionary leader. We also saw One Pillar Pagoda, a historic Buddhist temple. Then, we found a really cool floating coffee shop on a boat where we sat with a coffee, taking in the sights and sounds.  

Then it was back to the Old Quarter to grab dinner and a local beer.

Days 3-4: Travel to and stay overnight on a boat in Ha Long Bay

Our overnight bags were packed and we met our bus driver bright and early in the hotel lobby. We boarded the coach and were off to Ha Long Bay! It was about a four hour drive over to the coast during which our awesome tour guide intermittently stood and filled us in about our surroundings, cultural Vietnamese traditions, language, thoughts on history and modern times, and more. When we arrived at the bay, we boarded a small boat that took us out to our overnight boat. Our cabin window looked directly out toward the bay and the awe-inspiring views were limitless. 

We were fed local meals, taught how to make traditional foods, socialized with other travelers on the rooftop deck, and went on an off-boat adventure into the enormous Hang Sung Sot cave. We were constantly, slowly moving throughout Ha Long Bay's 600 square miles. I had seen many photos of this place before visiting, but never dreamed it was so huge! It is filled with tall limestone islands (about 2000 of them) that have rainforests on top - so dreamy. If you have a chance to visit this magical place, I highly encourage it. It was mentioned that they may not be able to offer overnight boat tours after the next couple of years due to tourism monopolization in the area.

On the afternoon of our second day there, we boarded the coach once again and headed back to Hanoi.

our boat - the view from outside of our cabin

bay views

taking a small boat over to walk inside a cave

hang sung sot cave

incredible views outside the cave

Day 5: Day trip to Hoa Lu & Tam Coc in the Ninh Binh province

We woke up back in our original hotel ready to board another tour bus. We were again met by an outgoing, informative guide who gave us more history lessons along the way. We arrived in the Ninh Binh province and I was once again astonished by the scenery. This area is known as "Ha Long Bay on land" and it is clear why. We were surrounded by more mountains, this time towering above expansive rice fields instead of water. 

Our first stop was to visit two ancient temples in Hoa Lu. We learned the differences between temples and pagodas: temples are for worshipping kings and pagodas are for worshipping Buddha. You must take your shoes off in pagodas because, if not, your feet will clomp and you might be reincarnated as a horse or goat. Men are in charge of taking care of temples and women of pagodas. People bring gifts of vegetarian food to Buddha but all foods and alcohol to kings. There are thresholds you must step over when entering temples that cause you to look down as you step in - a naturally forced bow of respect. I learned all of this from our wise guide.

We then made our way to the river in Tam Coc where we boarded boats paddled by locals and were brought down the winding river and back, a wonderfully unique way of seeing the sights. After our boat tour, we mounted bicycles and were led on a guided tour along bumpy dirt roads through the rice fields.

It was another superb day of learning and observing Vietnamese culture and nature. We spent one last night back in our hotel before our flight to Thailand early the next morning.

arriving in ninh binh to this beautiful landscape

visiting a temple

the locals

boat ride down the river

amazing way to see this part of the country

bike ride through rice fields

rice fields for miles

On most of my travels, I tend to be my own guide. However, I am so thankful that we decided to take multiple guided group tours while in Vietnam, as I was able to learn so much history and culture that I otherwise probably would not have. As you can see, we were able to fit so much into our few days in Northern Vietnam. If anyone ever tries to discourage you from a short trip, don't listen! You, of course, will not be able to see it all (I know I have to go back to see Sapa, Hoi An, and much more), but a sizable taste can be gained from a short visit. Now I know that I must return!

Have you dreamed of visiting Vietnam? If you created your own Southeast Asia itinerary, what would you include?

5 Tips for Choosing the Perfect Airbnb

Chris and I first started using Airbnb on our honeymoon in 2015. Since then, we have stayed in Airbnbs in 11 countries and 5 states! I love it not only because it's usually a more affordable option, but also because it gives you the experience of really feeling like you live in the place in which you're traveling. I tend to choose Airbnbs over hotels, especially if I know we will want to cook our own meals some days or are traveling with friends and would like multiple bedrooms in the same house.

I would like to share a few of my top tips for choosing the perfect Airbnb - take a look and let me know what you think!
 

1. Location, location, location

The detail that I always assign the most importance to when looking at Airbnbs is location. Many times when visiting new cities, I plan on getting around on foot, so finding a home that's walkable to the major sights and to some restaurants and cafés is highest on my list. While browsing Airbnbs, you aren't able to see the exact address (until you make the booking), but it does show you a pretty specific area in which the residence lies. I usually pull up Google Maps alongside the Airbnb map so I can make sure it's in the area in which I'm hoping to stay. The Airbnb hosts have the option to write a little bit about the neighborhood as well, which is quite helpful.

TIP: If you're unsure about which area in a city would be a good place for you to stay, try googling "which neighborhood to stay in in Paris (or wherever you're going)." You can usually find an article that describes each neighborhood; this will help you get an idea of which would best suit your desires.

Helpful info & map from the airbnb listing

2. Read the reviews!

Reviews are so important on Airbnb. Positive reviews are helpful in confirming the ease of the check-in process, the response rate of the host leading up to and during the stay, the comfort of the accommodation, the walkability, and more. Pay attention to things that are mentioned more than once, especially if they are negative. For example, if multiple people mention that they had trouble with the WiFi and you're planning on needing internet to get some work done on your travels, that may not be the place for you. Additionally, if I find that more than one person mentions that they felt that the area was sketchy, I usually automatically discard that option.

3. Host's response rate

The host's response rate is a crucial indicator on how helpful the host will be in general. If you have questions prior to booking, about transportation to and from the Airbnb, last minute changes in your arrival time, etc., knowing that the host will get back to you quickly is a huge advantage.

4. Plug in your dates

You can browse Airbnb all day and find dozens of homes you're dying stay in, but you won't know for sure if they are available during your needed dates unless you plug those dates in, of course. Another significant reason for doing this is that the price of a home often changes for different months or days of the week, so you'll want to make sure that the price you're seeing is accurate for your dates of stay. 

Additionally, pay attention to any added fees associated with the rental. Some hosts charge fees for cleaning or additional guests while others do not; depending on the fees, this can sometimes result in a surprising total cost and can influence my decision about which to book. See below for an example of the same Airbnb before & after plugging in my dates:

Before plugging any dates in

After putting dates in - price went up & fees added

5. Personal preferences

The most fun aspect of Airbnb is that there are SO many homes with SO many different styles and amenities and I find it very satisfying to find one that perfectly fits what I'm looking for. Personally, one of my favorite features is a balcony (I love views and outdoor dining!). Another necessary amenity for me, particularly when traveling overseas because I don't purchase an international phone plan, is WiFi. Depending on where you're traveling, making sure the residence has air conditioning could be a very key factor. You may also need parking or laundry facilities.

Airbnb gives you the option to choose to rent a private room in a house or an entire house/apartment. I personally enjoy my privacy while traveling and have only reserved "entire house" Airbnbs. However, if you're looking to save on cost, booking a private room in a shared house can be a great option if you don't mind a shared living space! 

Lastly, the style of the home can have an influence on my decision to book. I tend to prefer someplace either modern and bright or designed to reflect the traditional style of that city/country (a village house in Tuscany, for example). But the best part about this whole process is that you get to choose what YOU like best.

Here are just a few amazing airbnbs we've stayed in:

my favorite balcony ever in our paris airbnb

in london - the coolest window

the view from our copenhagen airbnb patio

sunset in cortona, tuscany from our airbnb's outdoor space

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What is the BEST Airbnb you've ever stayed in? Tell me about it!

*If you're interested in trying out Airbnb for the first time, click HERE to sign up with my referral code and receive $40 off your first stay!*

5 Reasons You Need to Visit Acadia National Park

My husband and I just recently moved from New Hampshire to Maine and, this summer, we visited Maine's Acadia National Park for the first time together! Acadia is the oldest U.S. national park east of the Mississippi. It is situated on an island off the coast of Maine and consists of beaches, lakes, forests, and mountains. It's the perfect place for hikers of all ages and abilities, vacationers who love to relax on the beach, sightseers who want to drive around and hit all of the main attractions, and for those who love to camp. I am going to share just a few of my favorite reasons to visit Acadia!

1. Mount Desert Campground

Staying at Mount Desert Campground may have been my favorite part of our visit and I decided that it's my favorite campground I've ever stayed at. We had a waterfront site that was super spacious, had a platform for our tent, and unbeatable sunset views from the hammocks we strung up in the trees along the water.
BONUS: Dogs are allowed during the slower months of May-June and September-October.

2. amazing Views everywhere, all the time

No matter where you are in Acadia National Park, the sights are simply stunning. Whether it's the crystal clear water at Sand Beach, the pink granite rocks along the water, the mystical forest trails, or the outstanding panoramic views from atop Cadillac Mountain, serious beauty is a guarantee.
TIP: Take a drive along Park Loop Road, a 27 mile road with a great number of scenic stops and pullover viewpoints. Don't skip out on taking the stairs down to the beach for the best view of Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse!

otter cliff trail, off of park loop drive

on top of cadillac mountain

ship harbor trail

us on top of cadillac mountain

thunder hole

bass harbor head lighthouse

3. The park's Dog-Friendliness

As I previously mentioned, Mount Desert Campground is dog-friendly during the slower months, but Acadia and most of its trails are dog-friendly year round. This is pretty hard to come by with national parks and an AWESOME plus if you love traveling with your little buddies (most national parks do not allow dogs on any trails or in campgrounds). Our pup, Remy, was able to accompany us on our adventures all throughout the park. If you bring your BFF along, just make sure to double check in advance whether the trails you want to explore definitely allow dogs.

4. Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor is the largest town on Mount Desert Island and the gateway to Acadia National Park. It is the main hub for shopping and dining on the island and offers lodging of all types (in case you aren't into camping). You can spend an afternoon meandering around its streets, laying on the grassy hill overlooking the harbor and watching the ships, or - my personal favorite - grabbing some ice cream! We tried out Mount Desert Island Ice Cream and loved its unique flavors like blackstrap molasses banana and lemon poppyseed blackberry swirl.

5. Trails for all levels

Acadia is a wonderful place for hikers of all ages and levels. If you're looking for a tough, thrilling hike, try out the Beehive Loop Trail or Precipice Trail, both of which feature areas of exposed cliffs with iron rungs to climb - not for those with a fear of heights. If you're on the hunt for something simpler and flatter, try Ship Harbor Trail or Great Head Trail.
TIP: AllTrails is my favorite trail-finding website/app for finding hikes all over the country; I highly recommend using it to browse all of the different hikes Acadia has to offer: Best Trails in Acadia National Park

the beehive, as seen from sand beach

cadillac mountain

ship harbor trail

ship harbor trail

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have you visited acadia national park? 

What are your favorite reasons to go or your favorite sights to see while you're there?

The Best Campgrounds of Fjord Norway

Having recently returned from an unbelievable first visit to Norway, I want to share part of what made our travels so wonderful and simple: Norway's campgrounds! The Fjord region of Norway, through which we traveled in a campervan over the course of a week, has an abundance of campgrounds suitable for tent camping, campervans, and large RVs (with and without electricity). Most also offer small cabins you can rent, laundry facilities, and water-tank filling hoses. Every campground we stayed at provided bathrooms with showers as well as dish-washing stations and all but one campground had WiFi. Although "wild camping," which is camping overnight on any public land, is permitted in Norway, staying at actual campgrounds provided us with those extra amenities at such a low cost that was worth it to us. Can't argue with a hot shower every day!

We booked all campsites we stayed at at the time of arrival. We found that there was no need to book in advance in mid-May, however, you may want to do so in the busier summer months, as we did run into one full campground on a holiday weekend. Not having to book in advance was especially advantageous on the days we didn't have specific plans for which area we were going to stay in. Throughout the Fjord region, campgrounds are plentiful. We found most of them to cost approximately 30 USD per night. Can't beat that!

Here are the campgrounds we stayed at and the reasons why we loved them:

Flåm Campground og Vandrarheim ("and Hostel")

The first campground we stayed at was the only one at which we remained for two nights and definitely kicked the camping week off right. 

Flåm Campground was situated conveniently right off of the highway, tucked up on a hillside beside a stream leading out to the Flåm fjord and town center, which was about a 5 minute walk down the street. Flåm, a popular stop on Norwegian fjord cruises as well as the Flåm Railway, is a busy tourist center. Despite this, it is a very small hub. It has a shopping center, a miniature supermarket, a brewery (Ægir Bryggeri, our favorite that we tried on the trip - you can get cans in any major grocery store), and just a couple of cafés and restaurants. The campground itself had plenty of room for many campers and/or tents as well as a few hostel buildings for visitors needing a room. It is located near to Stegastein lookout, where a short drive rewarded us with glorious views of the surrounding fjords. A perfect place to begin our travels through the fjords!

our site at flam campground

flam campground's goats

hungry baby goat

campground waterfall views

views from the cruise ship port in flam town center

bridge from flam center to the main road

the walk from town back to the campground

Nameless Campground, 2 kilometers down the road from Sande Camping

We had planned to stay at Sande Camping on Lovatnet lake, however, when we arrived we found that it was full for the night. The host suggested that we continue down the road just a bit further to another campground. What we found was more like a family's hilly backyard directly on the lake, but we pulled our van right up to the water's edge and enjoyed a lovely quiet evening with SUCH great views! The property may have had a name, but if it did, I did not catch it. It did, however, have bathrooms and FREE hot showers (most cost about 1 USD for a few minutes). This was the only campsite of our trip that did not have WiFi. It was peaceful and pleasant, had a picnic table right on the water where we ate our dinner, and a stunning view of the sun setting over the water. 

the most perfect views from our spot!

Geirangerfjorden Feriesenter

We took the ferry from Hellesylt to Geiranger (such an amazing ride in itself that we didn't feel the need to splurge on a Geiranger fjord cruise - we saw all the sights right from the ferry, including the Seven Sisters waterfall!) and set up camp at Geirangerfjorden Feriesenter, another campground sitting right on the water just outside the town center. With Geiranger being one of the main tourist areas of the fjords, the campground was pretty full, but we were still able to procure a spot on the water rather than further up the hill. This campground was a perfect base for exploring the area. We walked through town, drove up to Flydalsjuvet viewpoint, and continued up the very long and very winding Eagle Road to Dalsnibba, a viewpoint at the tippy top of Europe's highest fjord road. From our campsite, we had a superb view of the Geiranger town which was beautifully illuminated at night. 

PlusCamp Strynsvatn

We came across the PlusCamp Strynsvatn campground during our travels one day when we didn't have a set plan for where we were staying and it turned out to be an excellent find! It is located on Oppstrynsvatnet lake, an absolutely gorgeous lake that I had wanted to check out while we were on the road. From our site, we were able to walk down the lake about half a mile to a swimming spot by a tiny, secluded island with trails throughout - it was magical. The campground also had an array of amenities and activities - multiple playgrounds, trampolines, soccer field, billiards room, and boats and cabins for rent. And it's always a plus when you have waterfall views from your site. This is another campground to which we would happily return.

Tvinde Camping

Our last night in the campervan was spent sleeping next to the giant Tvindefossen waterfall. The waterfall itself is a tourist attraction with a little souvenir shop, but campers can stay right on the property and they also have a few small cabins for rent. It is impossible not to have a view of the falls from your site here. The roaring of the water gave us the most restful sleep of our journey.

In summation, we were thoroughly impressed with both the amount and quality of the campgrounds we came across whilst exploring the fjords. We recommend staying at all of the above if they fall on the route of your own Norway adventures!

If you have any questions about camping or campgrounds (or anything) in Norway, please ask!